Bug Bytes: Nairobi, Kenya

This week’s Bug Bytes comes from Mark Wiens, adventurer, food lover and creator of Migrationology. Mark grew up in Africa, and here, tells us all about what life is like in Nairobi… and how you can make the most of your next Kenya trip.

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BB: You lived in Nairobi, Kenya. I have a gazillion questions but let’s start with the basics. What took you there and when did you arrive? How long were you there for?
MW: My family moved to Nairobi when I was about 10 years old. I attended an international American school in Nairobi for 8 years until graduating from high school. I left at the age of 18 and have since just been making visits back to hang out and see friends. I’ve returned 4 times in the last 6 years!

BB: What part of the town did you live in? What was it like?
MW: I lived in an estate called New Runda, not far from the United Nations campus. We had a pretty nice house with an incredible green lawn and huge trees. Though all of our amenities were available, the water and electricity were off about as much as they were on.

BB: What were the people like? Are there any cultural customs we should be aware of?
MW: Overall, the majority of people are generous, hospitable and extremely friendly. Many will give you advice and help you with directions or tips. People are very forgiving and if you make a mistake or step on someones foot, say “oh pole sana (pronounced po le).”

Nairobi

BB: Describe a typical day for you in Nairobi.
MW: On a typical day off, with no school involved. Wake up in the morning, things don’t get going too early and it can be quite cold too. Drink some chai (sweet tea with milk), eat a mandazi (local doughnut), and then decide where to head first. I like to go to Daimond Plaza, an Indian influenced shopping center in the Parklands area of Nairobi. One of my favorite activities is eating Nyama Choma (roasted meat) for lunch. We used to go to a number of spots in an area called Nairobi West. Sometimes I would do a bit of shopping in a market like Gikomba near town. From there it’s just hanging out with buddies and taking it easy. We might eventually head to Westlands to hang out at one of the many night bars.

BB: Did you find it to be an overall safe city? Would you recommend it to your friends or families, or to women traveling alone? I’ve heard robberies are common.. did you experience any of that?
MW: Some areas of Nairobi are safer, others are not safe at all. Nairobi does have it’s share of theft, but using some common sense is a way to avoid some of it. I’ve had a couple mobile phones and a wallet stolen. When we first moved to Nairobi my Mother had a gold necklace ripped off her neck and my Father had a watched ripped off his wrist. Lesson: Be careful what you wear outdoors, don’t wear anything flashy, and be careful with electronics ie: cameras.

That being said, I don’t feel in danger at all when I am in Nairobi. I would definitely recommend traveling to Nairobi, but when going to places like town or slum areas it’s always a good idea to find a group or some traveling companions.

For solo women, just be careful, be alert, and be especially careful going out at night. Always go with a group of people. If you go to any parties where there are a lot of people, be careful of pickpockets and purse snatches.

Downtown Nairobi

BB: What kind of accommodation do you use when you return? How do you find it?
MW: When I return to Nairobi for visits, I have many friends that I stay with. For budget travelers looking to stay somewhere, I would recommend somewhere near Yaya Center. It’s a nice quiet area, easy to get around and some great eateries close by. There are a number of hostels and guest houses in the area.

BB: Is it an expensive city? Or did you find the exchange rate to be favorable. What was the cost of a meal out? Of rent?
MW: Nairobi is not the cheapest place to travel to. Imported things are extremely expensive. Things like bottled water are quite pricey (about 1 USD for 1.5 L), because it’s only the wealthy or foreigners that need to buy water. Eating a low meat based meal of carbs and vegetables (ugali, rice, sukuma wiki, cabbage, potatoes) can cost $1 or less for a plate. A sit down more comfortable meal will cost more like $5-10. At street nyama choma restaurants, 1 Kg of roasted goat should run about 300 KSH (around $4).

Nyama Choma — Mark’s Favorite!

BB: What do you think is one important thing to keep in mind for travelers heading to Nairobi. (Any advice you’d give?)
MW: Nairobi and Africa in general, doesn’t always abide by schedules or itineraries. Make a plan and it probably won’t go smoothly and you’ll wind up a bit frustrated. If you can be flexible and patient, you will have a much better time in Nairobi.

BB: Nairobi is hailed as the music capital of Kenya.. did you hear or discover any music that you still listen to?
MW: Hehe, Yes. I used to listen to a lot of the local hip hop and reggae music coming from Nairobi, in fact I knew quite a few of the artists years ago. Not sure exactly what’s going on right now, but I used to like listening to Jua Cali, Necessary Noize, and Ukoo Flani. Try to go to a concert or bash where some Kenyan hip hop artist are performing, it’s always a great time!

BB: What’s the best way to get around the town? Bus? Train?
MW: The best way to get around Nairobi is by minibus called a matatu. It’s not always the most convenient or comfortable, but it is a great experience. Some drivers blast the latest hip hop jams and flash night club lights to make taking a local matatu an enjoyable event. There are all kinds of routes and people will help you with directions. There are also Citi Hoppa buses and KBC buses which usually head towards the center of town.

BB: Did you travel to other parts of Kenya? If so.. how did you get there? What parts? What were other areas like?
MW: Yes, I’ve traveled to quite a few other places in Kenya. I’ve taken mostly buses and private cars. I’ve been to Rift Valley, Kisumu, Mt. Kenya, Coast (Mombasa), and to many National Parks. The countryside of Kenya is beautiful and refreshing. There are opportunities to see animals at their wildest, to enjoy mountain scenery, or to relax in the Indian Ocean.

City Hawkers Market

BB: See, I told you I had a gazillion questions. Haha. If a friend were traveling to Nairobi, what would you recommend they see and why?
MW: It depends a little bit on what they are interested in. In the Karen area of Nairobi, there are a few animal orphanages. The Sheldrick Elephant orphanage is a great place to see baby elephants, touch them, and get close to them. There is also an animal orphanage where you can see baby African animals and pet a cheetah (unfortunately, I think the prices have gone way up).

I like to go to local markets, like City Park Hawkers market and Kenyatta Market. Check out the dazzling array of fruits and vegetables and eat some fine nyama choma!

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Thanks so much Mark!!

Mark Wiens grew up in Africa and has since become a travel blogger, exploring travel and culture opportunities around the world. On Migrationology, he publishes travel adventures and travel pictures revolving around unique adventures and lots of food!

To Find out more about Mark, check out Migrationology, follow him on Twitter @ Migrationology or follow him on Facebook.

Make sure to check out next week’s feature: Puerto Rico with Norbert of Globotreks!

Bug Bytes is a weekly feature that runs on Mondays, in which fellow travelers tell us all about the places they’ve lived and what makes those places awesome. Want to take part in Bug Bytes? Lived somewhere cool and want to talk about it? Email Kelly at travelbugjuice@gmail.com

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